Showing posts with label Coffee. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Coffee. Show all posts

Wednesday, July 15, 2009

Boquete, Chiriqui, Republic of Panama


I'm in Boquete this month, preparing for my family's move here at the end of summer. I can report that the economy in Chiriquí is strong. While the global economic crisis is having some effect, its not as pronounced as in the USA or Mexico.

Why Boquete? The climate is wonderful here in the "Valley of Eternal Spring". The landscape is gorgeous. The town has everything you need, yet its a very livable small town. The people and the culture are warm and wonderful. The cost of living is reasonable and the economy is strong.
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Boquete is in the shadow of Volcán Barú, the highest peak in C. America. At two miles in altitude, you can see both the Caribbean & the Pacific from its peak, on a clear day. With only 50 miles between the two coasts bisected by the Talamanca mountains, there is a constant sea breeze passing through this the Valley of Boquete. People here wear sweaters and jackets in the mornings and evenings, but its perfectly warm 365 afternoons/year. Want heat? It's a short drive to the beaches of either coast.

The landscape is lush rainforest. Flowers are everywhere. Some of the best coffee in the world grows in and around Boquete, in the shade of fruit tree. Fresh produce is always available. If you drop a seed or stick a branch in the ground, it grows because the rich, volcanic soil is extremely fertile. Here you can find some of the cleanest air and water in the world.

The town has a refreshing diversity of culture, entertainment, fine cuisine, and shopping outlets for its size. There are eco-tours, river rafting opportunities, great hikes, a zip line rain forest canopy tour. People walk everywhere, but taxi rides to most areas are less than a dollar. You can find lattes made from beans that consistently place 1st, 2nd, or 3rd in world cupping contests at one-third the price of Starbuck's over-roasted beans from unsustainable sources. (To order Boquete beans roasted and shipped to your door today, contact Seth and select "Casa Ruiz".)

Rumor has it that Hondurans are the friendliest people in Latin America but Panamanians are equally open, friendly, and good-natured. Panama has the highest literacy rate in Latin America and Boquete has excellent schools. The children safely roam about town and they are multilingual and multicultural. In addition to the beautiful culture of locals, there are many transplants in Boquete from around the world. Here Panamanians peacefully coexist with Europeans, N. & S. Americans, and other expats. You will hear French, English & German in the streets of Boquete on a daily basis. There is an excellent language school called Habla Ya where many pilgrims study Spanish, my family included.

Above is a photo of our new home, with Sr. Nicolas Guerra, an extraordinary coffee farmer. I am looking forward to driving from Seattle and pulling into the new driveway. We're located on the edge of National Park Volcán Barú, very near the Costa Rican border, where we plan to grow organic coffee, chocolate, fruits & vegetables. Come visit and hike with us into the International Park La Amistad (Costa Rica & Panama), an UNESCO World Heritage Site, and summit Volcán Barú.

Monday, August 20, 2007

Coffee Heaven

Coffee from Panama has won the international cupping contest during seven of the last 11 years. Three times the winner was Cafe Ruiz, which we toured today. The other two winners are Cafe Lerida & Cafe Geisha. These small-scale family farms choose the environmentally friendly, shade grown technique. Coffee is grown beneath fruit and native hardwood trees. In this picture from Cafe Ruiz you see a hummingbird nest in the coffee tree.

Cafe Ruiz is located in the Boquete valley, pictured below. Boquete is situated in the rainforest of the fertile western highlands of Panama. Here the cloud forest´s abundant moisture and the volcanic soil combine with ideal growing conditions to produce some of the world´s best coffee. Panama is at the same latitude as Ethiopia which is home to the Arabica tree, the oldest and best tasting species of coffee in the world.





Coffee is harvested by hand in Boquete, from October through March. There is amazing attention to quality through the following 12-step process, according to our guide Israel of Casa Ruiz:

  1. Selection by hand of only ripe beans.
  2. Sorting by density with water. Beans that float indicate damage from insects, fungus, or sunlight, so only the beans that sink are utilized. Floaters are sold to other companies which put their brand on the coffee - Cafe Ruiz will not.
  3. Pulping to remove the liquid that would lead to over fermentation.
  4. Fermentation
  5. Washing
  6. Drying
  7. Resting to age the beans for 4 months to allow for detection of defects that passed through the processes above.
  8. Peeling off the parchment.
  9. Sorting by size (there are 13 sizes), density by air (weight), and color. Only the green beans go forward. Yellow indicates the bean was picked too soon, black too late, and blue or red indicate fungus.
  10. The good sizes are mixed back together.
  11. Batch roasting to allow for selection by taste.
  12. Final grading
There are three grades:

Specialty - for export. This grade constitutes 80% of the yield of Casa Ruiz farms. There are 11 major farms and many other small, family farms which bring their beans to Casa Ruiz for processing.

Premium - This grade receives all the processing above, except for color processing, and is not exported.

Standard - This grade is also for the domestic market.

The most award-winning farm in the Casa Ruiz enterprise is La Berlina, which sells for $25 - $50 per pound, at the farm, depending on the yield in any given year. It consistently places in French, USA, and Panamanian cupping competitions. I bought some of this for my friend Seth, who is a coffee aficionado, and will post his remarks soon.

Cafe Geisha has sold for up to $130 per pound, at the farm. Sorry Seth, I can´t afford it!

Cafe Ruiz doesn´t export roasted coffee, but they do roast. We saw the company´s first roaster - a bowl that was placed in a fire, their first roasting machine, from France, and every machine they have used since then. Five roasts are observed. Approximate times follow:

  1. Gourmet - 13 minutes
  2. European - 14 minutes
  3. Latin - 15 minutes
  4. Italian - 18 minutes
  5. French - 20 minutes, at which point the beans lose all subtle flavors and become like Starbuck´s beans - burnt.

We had the pleasure of meeting Plinio Ruiz, son of the 85-year old Plinio Ruiz who was the 2nd generation of coffee growers behind his father who homesteaded in Boquete in the 1890´s.

Join us in October and we´ll tour the fields, processing plants, roasting room, and cafe!

To buy coffee from C. America in the USA, roasted by my friend Seth the same day he ships it to you, visit http://www.uniquecoffee.com/ (Seth stocks Cafe Ruiz when available.)